Anyone who comes into our workshop usually looks at the workbench first. No wonder: Good leatherworking tools may look inconspicuous, but they determine every millimeter of stitching and every edge. This time we show you what is in our hands every day at KATAAB in Berlin – and why.
What the workbench shows
Our workbench is by the window so that the daylight falls on the cut edge. There is no clutter on it, but a firm order: cutting and marking on the left, sewing and riveting in the middle, finishing the edges on the right. Every tool has its place, and many are older than our brand. Some handles have become smooth and dark from years of use – very similar to vegetable-tanned leather itself.
The workflow always follows the same path: The leather is selected and marked, cut, prepared at the edges, sewn or riveted, and finally finished at the edges. Along this path, only a few machines come into play. Most of the work happens with small, simple tools that you can feel. This does not mean that every piece goes through every step by hand – for our standard products we work with rivets or saddle machine stitching, the hand-sewn saddle stitch is reserved for custom-made items. But eye and hand decide everywhere with us.
The tools of the KATAAB workbench in detail
Cutting and marking
It all starts with the line. With a pricking iron we transfer patterns onto the leather – it leaves a fine, permanent trace that, unlike a pen, does not smudge. Cutting is done with the round knife or the utility knife, guided by a metal ruler and template. A sharp knife is crucial: A dull knife crushes the fibers instead of separating them cleanly, and the edge becomes rough even before the first sanding.
- Pricking iron: marks exactly, without smudging.
- Round knife and utility knife: cut clean edges if they are regularly sharpened.
- Templates: ensure that every piece looks the same and still respects the grain.
Sewing, riveting and joining
Before sewing, we set the stitch holes. The pricking wheel and the pricking awl set the distance; the awl punches the holes in the direction of the seam, so that the thread later lies in an even line. For custom-made items, we perform the saddle stitch by hand with two needles: Every stitch is pulled individually and locked. For standard products, we rely on rivets or machine stitching instead – an honest difference that we prefer to state clearly rather than blur it.
The rivet stamp with its backing sits in heavily stressed areas, such as card pockets and key loops. A properly set rivet holds the layers together where thread alone would be stressed in the long run. In addition, there are clamps and clips that hold the leather in place while working, without leaving pressure marks.
Finishing edges and surfaces
Here is where the ordinary often separates from the careful. With the edge sharpener we lightly break the sharp cut edge, then we sand it with fine sandpaper until it is even and seamless. Then it is moistened and compacted and polished with tragacanth or beeswax. The result is a smooth, closed edge that absorbs moisture less quickly and gets more beautiful with the years.
- Bevel the edge
- Sand until no step is felt anymore
- Moisten and compact with tragacanth or wax
- Polish with wood or cloth until it shines slightly
The polishing wood made of hardwood is used so often in this step that its grooves fit exactly the thickness of our leather thicknesses. It is a tool that has grown into us.
The processing counts
A tool is only as good as the patience behind it. A clean seam, a closed edge, a rivet that sits exactly – all this is hardly visible on the first day, but very clear after three or five years. Then it shows whether layers come loose, whether edges fray, and whether the leather at the bend points is still tight. That is exactly why we take our time with the steps that no one notices immediately. Durability is not created by a big promise, but by many small, correctly executed steps that over the years add up to an object that accompanies you.
The attitude behind it
Good tools alone do not make good work – the material must play along. We use vegetable-tanned cowhide from European tanneries with a traceable supply chain. This leather reacts well to knives, sandpaper, and polishing wood because it has dense, even fibers. This also includes that we keep waste as small as possible and use remnants for smaller parts. We package in kraft paper and cotton bags that you can reuse. And we tell you openly how a product is made – with rivets, with machine stitching, or with hand-sewn saddle stitching –, so that you can make a decision that suits you.
A scene from the workshop (illustrative)
Imagine a customer who brings her wallet back after four years to be re-oiled. She lays it on the workbench and says that the edges are still as smooth as on the first day, but the leather has taken on a color she would never have chosen – and she no longer wants to give it up. We look together at the seams, at the rivets on the card pocket, and at the darker edge that her thumb has polished over the years. No tool had to intervene, just a little care. She takes the wallet back in her hand, turns it around once, and smiles as if she had met an old acquaintance again.
This is how we imagine the best moment in our work: not the sale, but the day when someone realizes that an object has truly aged with them.
“I thought I had bought a wallet. Today I know I have received a companion.”
What would you like to ask the workshop?
Which tool surprised you the most while reading – or which one is missing from the list? Write to us in the comments what you want to know about leathercraft. Next week we will look at how to read the grain of a leather before the first knife is applied.
Discover the collection
If you want to see what is created on this workbench, browse through all products or take a look at our wallets. For most items, you can have initials or a monogram laser engraved. We are happy to answer questions about material, processing, or personalization at info@kataabwerkstatt.de.
Frequently asked questions
- What tools do you need for leatherwork?
- For getting started, a pricking iron, sharp knife, ruler, awl, needles, thread, sandpaper, and a polishing wood are enough. If you want to process edges cleanly, add an edge sharpener. Over time, the equipment grows, but quality comes above all from practice.
- Why are leather edges polished?
- Polished edge material compacts the fibers, absorbs less moisture, and feels smoother. In addition, it does not fray as quickly and still looks neat after years.
- Are all KATAAB products sewn by hand?
- No. Our standard products are handmade and joined with rivets or saddle machine stitching. We offer the hand-sewn saddle stitch with two needles for custom-made items.
- What is tragacanth and what is it used for?
- Tragacanth is a natural plant gum. We use it to moisten and compact the leather edges before we polish them with wood or cloth. Alternatively, we use beeswax.